Frequently Asked Questions

General

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How long does it take to complete your solar test in vitro?

After receipt of the Information Sheet and the product in our laboratory, it takes from 3 to 5 days for the realization of an in vitro sunscreen test with the sending of the preliminary results and from 7 to 10 days for the sending of the final report.

How long does it take to carry out your in vivo sunscreen tests?

After reception of the Information Sheet, the Safety Data Sheet and the product in the laboratory, it takes between 1 and 3 months (depending on the planning) for the realization of an in vivo sunscreen test with the sending of the short report and the final report.

How much product should I send to do a suncreen test?

For in vitro tests, we need at least 1 sample of about 30 ml (30 g).
For in vivo tests, we need at least 2 samples of about 30 ml (30 g) each one.

What are the delivery times for orders?

After order confirmation, the delivery times (given as an indication according to the availability of the stock and the planning of sending) are as follows:
– For our consumables (HD6 and SB6 substrates, HD0 Kit, Silicone Finger, etc.), it takes between 1 and 2 weeks.
– For our HD-THERMASTER, it takes between 1 and 2 months.
– For our HD-SPREADMASTER robot, it takes between 2 and 3 months.

Method

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What is an in vitro sunscreen test in the field of suncare products?

An in vitro sunscreen test is an alternative method (also called pre-clinical or analytical) to the in vivo testing (also called clinical) to evaluate the sun protection of a cosmetic product. It is mainly based on the residual spectrum transmitted through a film of product spreaded on a substrate.

What are the official in vitro sunscreen test methods?

To evaluate the sun protection of your cosmetic products, our in vitro tests are performed according to different official methods:
👉ISO/CD 23675 (ref. HeSPF-4) – Double plates in vitro SPF
👉ISO 24443:2021 (ref. HePACK-CLAIM-1) – FPUVA + CW in vitro
👉FDA 2011 (ref. HeCW-FDA) – Broad spectrum (Critical Wavelength) in vitro
👉Boots Star Rating system 2011 (ref. HeUVA:UVB-BOOTS) – UVA:UVB ratio in vitro
👉AS/NZS 2604:2021 – FPUVA + CW in vitro

What is an in vivo sunscreen test in the field of suncare products?

An in vivo sunscreen test (also called clinical) is a method to evaluate the sun protection of a cosmetic product using human volunteers. It is based on the reading of a biological reaction of the skin (erythema for UVB protection and pigmentation for UVA protection) following progressive UV exposures on areas with and without a sunscreen product spread on the back of the human volunteer.

What are the official in vivo sun protection assessment methods?

In order to evaluate the sun protection of your cosmetic products, our in vitro tests are performed in accordance with the different official methods:
👉ISO 24444:2019 – SPF in vivo
👉ISO 24442:2022 – FPUVA in vivo
👉ISO 18861:2020 & ISO 16217:2020 – WR in vivo
👉FDA 2011 – SPF + WR in vivo
👉AS/NZS 2604:2021 – SPF + WR in vivo
👉ISO/CD 23698 – SPF in vivo/in vitro (HDRS)

Why exposing a solar product to UV?

First of all, UV exposure (also called irradiation) is used to take into account the photostability of sunscreen products with respect to UVB and UVA performance in order to avoid an overestimation of the sun protection performance. In other words, to check the level of UVB and UVA protection after sun exposure.

Secondly, all official tests include a UV exposure step (with a different light spectrum and dose) to test photostability as explained above.

Do your PMMA plates comply with the sunscreen protection evaluation standards?

Taking their topographic surface parameters into account, our PMMA plates comply with the following standards:
– HELIOPLATE HD6 Molded Plate – ISO 24443:2021 (ISO 24443:2012) | ISO/CD 23675 | ISO/CD 23698 | FDA 2011 | Boots Star Rating 2011 | Colipa 2011
– HELIOPLATE SB6 Sandblasted Plate – ISO 24443:2021 | ISO/CD 23675 | ISO/CD 23698 | FDA 2011 | Boots Star Rating 2011

Sunscreen product

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What is a sunscreen product?

A sunscreen product (also called a sun protection product) is any preparation (such as, for example, a cream, an oil, a gel, an aerosol, etc.) containing UV filters and which is intended to be placed in contact with the human skin with the aim of protecting it from UV rays by absorbing, dispersing or reflecting them.

 

Avec protection solaire

What is a UV filter?

A UV filter is a substance that is exclusively or mainly intended to protect the skin from certain ultraviolet radiations by absorbing, reflecting or dispersing this radiations. It is possible to compare two main families :
– chemical (or organic) filters will mainly absorbe UV radiation and release their excitation energy in the form of heat.
– Mineral (or inorganic) filters mainly reflect or disperse UV radiation.

What is the SPF?

The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a measure to determinate the efficiency of a sunscreen product to protect against UVB.

The SPF is the ratio between the minimum erythemal dose (MED) on protected skin and the MED on unprotected skin.
In other words, for example, an SPF 10 sunscreen product allows you to stay in the sun 10 times longer than without protection before getting a sunburn (erythema).

Note that the SPF will be impacted by several factors (phototype, quantity, spreading quality, external conditions, etc.) and must be considered as a scale (indication) of relative efficiency ranking limiting the appearance of an erythema used as a reference for the consumer’s choice.

 

spf selon les types de peau

Which SPF should you choose for a child?

It is important to protect children from the sun (clothes, hat, glasses, solar cream, etc.) because the body is still growing and therefore the skin is fragile.

Especially since 50 to 80% of UV damage (visible to adults) occurs during childhood and adolescence.

It is therefore necessary to apply generously and frequently a sun product with an index higher than or equal to 50.

Regulations

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What are the claimed SPF categories?

In the European Union, there are 4 categories of SPF indicated on the packaging of the sun product:
👉”Low protection” with a claimed SPF of 6 or 10 (respectively measured 6-9.9 | 10-14.9).
👉Medium Protection” with a claimed SPF of 15, 20 or 25 (measured as 15-19.9 | 20-24.9 | 25-29.9 respectively).
👉High protection” with a claimed SPF of 30 or 50 (measured 30-49.9 | 50-59.9 respectively).
Very high protection” with a claimed SPF of 50+ (respectively measured 60 and +).

UV

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What are UV rays?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is part of the electromagnetic spectrum emitted by the sun (which also includes visible and infrared radiation). These UV rays will reach the earth’s surface while being invisible to the naked eye.
In the field of sunscreen products, the prefered wavelength range for effective protection is between 290 nm and 400 nm.

 

UVA UVB UVC 1

What are UVB rays?

Ultraviolet B rays (UVB) penetrates into the epidermis and are the main cause of sunburn (erythema) and in the long term can cause skin cancer.
In the field of sunscreen products, UVB rays have a wavelength between 290 and 320 nanometers.

What are UVA rays?

Ultraviolet A (UVA) rays penetrates into the dermis and are the main cause of premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation, tanning, some skin problems and, to a lesser extent compared to UVB, skin cancers.
In the field of sunscreen products, UVA has a wavelength between 320 and 400 nanometers, knowing that it is possible to distinguish between short UVA – or UVA-II or UVA-2 (between 320 and 340 nm) and long UVA – UVA-I or UVA-1 (between 340 and 400 nm).

What are UVC rays?

Ultraviolet C rays (UVC) are the most dangerous UV rays for our skin but are absorbed by the stratospheric ozone layer. They are still used to kill bacteria and viruses.
In the field of sunscreen products, UVC have a wavelength between 100 and 290 nanometers.

What are the positives effects of UV rays?

In small quantity, UV radiation is beneficial and essential for the synthesis of vitamin’s D.

UV is also used to treat several diseases, including rickets, psoriasis, eczema and jaundice. These treatments are carried out under medical supervision and the benefits of these treatments are weighed against the risks of UV exposures on a clinical basis.

Finally, the sun has a positive effect on our mood and our morale while allowing us to have a tan skin.

What are the risks related to sun exposure?

Prolonged exposure to ultraviolets (UV) rays is dangerous for health and can have acute and chronic effects on the skin, eyes and immune system (see UVA and UVB radiation).

It is therefore recommended to protect yourself every day (even in winter) by applying a suitable sun cream.

 

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How to protect yourself from the sun's UV rays?

First of all, it is recommended to limit direct exposure to sunlight (shade, UV index, time of day, etc.) and to be protected enough (clothing, hat, sunglasses, sun cream, etc.)

In the case of using a sunscreen product, is very important to choose :
👉an SPF of at least 15 (more for children, sensitive skin and fair phototypes),
👉a broad spectrum protection (UVA and UVB rays),
a formulation that you will appreciate.

Then, apply your sunscreen generously to all bare skin, ideally about 15-30 minutes before sun exposure.

It is necessary to reapply at least every 2 hours and after sweating, swimming or drying (by reducing this amount, the protection factor is reduced).

Finally, protect yourself of the sun!

What are skin phototypes?

All skins are different, but there are 6 phototypes determined by the Fitzpatrick classification:
👉Phototype 1: The skin is very white, the hair tends to reddish/blond, often with freckles on the body, the skin always reddens with very frequent sunburns.
👉Phototype 2: The skin is fair, the hair tends to be reddish-blond, with freckles sometimes, and the skin tans only very slowly, with frequent sunburns.
👉Phototype 3: The skin is classic, the hair tends to be chestnut/brown or even black with skin that tans easily.
👉Phototype 4 : The skin is matte, the hair tends to be brown or black with skin that tans very quickly.
👉Phototype 5: The skin is dark, the hair tends to black with skin that tans.
Phototype 6: The skin is black, the hair tends to black and the skin is sunburned in very rare cases.

 

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OUR SERVICES

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