Our tests are performed in compliance with international standards and in total reproducibility by means of our equipment and our expertise.

SCREENING

As part of the development of your products or to identify a potential candidate, we offer screening tests allowing you to assess easily UVB and UVA protection.

* Method published by HelioScreen.

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HeSPF-1 - In vitro SPF without irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method.

(ex-ref. He001a)

HeUVA-1 - In vitro UVAPF without irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method.

(ex-ref. He002b)

HeCW-1 - In vitro Critical Wavelength without irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Critical Wavelength (CW) which expresses the ultraviolet A (UVA) protection relative to the ultraviolet B (UVB) protection of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. 

(ex-ref. He003c)

HePACK-SCREEN-1 - In vitro SPF + UVAPF + CW without irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) and Critical Wavelength (CW) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method.

(ex-ref. He123)

HeSPF-2 - In vitro SPF with pre-irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product is irradiated before measurement.

(ex-ref. He001b)

HeUVA-2- In vitro UVAPF with pre-irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product is irradiated before measurement.

(ex-ref. He002a)

HeCW-2 - In vitro Critical Wavelength with pre-irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Critical Wavelength (CW) which expresses the ultraviolet A (UVA) protection relative to its ultraviolet B (UVB) protection of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product is irradiated before measurement.

(ex-ref. He003b)

HePACK-SCREEN-2 - In vitro SPF + UVAPF + CW with pre-irradiation

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) and Critical Wavelength (CW) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product is irradiated before measurement.

(ex-ref. He123b)

HeSPF-3 - In Vitro SPF multi-substrates without irradiation*

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using a multi-substrates approach (molded and sandblasted plates) on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. This method allows a higher correlation with in vivo results.

(ex-ref. He001d)

HeSPF-4 - In Vitro SPF multi-substrates with irradiation*

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using a multi-substrates approach (molded and sandblasted plates) on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. This method allows a higher correlation with in vivo results and the product was UV exposed to take into account any potential photo-unstability.

(ex-ref. He001c)

HePHOTOSTAB-1 - In vitro Photostability standard approach

The present protocol consists in evaluating the evolution of the level of protection of sun protection after a UV exposition at a specified UV dose. This method, based on a spectrophotometric measurement, allows to determine the global physical and chemical photostability of a sunscreen product.

(ex-ref. He006a)

HeWR-1 - In vitro Water Resistance*

The in vitro Water Resistance (WR) of sunscreens was tested by applying the same principle as in vivo, which determines the percentage of retention of sunscreen products by assessing the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) before and after water immersion. Based on a publication, this in vitro method for Water Resistance percentage assessment is a practical, convenient and relevant tool in terms of reproduciblity and correlation with in vivo values.

 (ex-ref. He004)

HeWR-2 - In vitro Very Water Resistance

The in vitro Very Water Resistance (VWR) of sunscreens was tested by applying the same principle as in vivo, which determines the percentage of retention of sunscreen products by assessing the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) before and after double water immersions. Based on a publication, this in vitro method for Very Water Resistance percentage assessment is a practical, convenient and relevant tool in terms of reproduciblity and correlation with in vivo values.

(ex-ref. He004a)

CLAIM

We propose you to assess the sun protection of your products in total compliance with official methods and to claim the properties of your products by exclusive tests developed by HelioScreen

* Method published by HelioScreen. ** In vivo tests are performed by our partners.

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HeUVA-ISO - In Vitro UVAPF - ISO 24443 method

The ISO 24443 method specifies an in vitro procedure to characterize the UVA protection of sunscreen products in a reproducible manner. In order to determine relevant UVA protection parameters, the method is strictly followed to provide a UV spectral absorbance curve from which a number of calculations can be undertaken such as the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF). This method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the UV absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He002c2)

HeCW-ISO - In vitro CW - ISO 24443

The ISO 24443 method specifies an in vitro procedure to characterize the UVA protection of sunscreen products in a reproducible manner. In order to determine relevant UVA protection parameters, the method is strictly followed to provide a UV spectral absorbance curve from which a number of calculations can be undertaken such as the Critical Wavelength (CW). This method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the UV absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He003c2)

HePACK-CLAIM-1 - In vitro UVAPF + CW - ISO 24443

The ISO 24443 method specifies an in vitro procedure to characterize the UVA protection of sunscreen products in a reproducible manner. In order to determine relevant UVA protection parameters, the method is strictly followed to provide a UV spectral absorbance curve from which a number of calculations can be undertaken such as the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) and the Critical Wavelength (CW). This method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the UV absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He023c4)

HePACK-CLAIM-2 - In vitro SPF multi-substrates with irradiation* (HeSPF-4) & In vitro UVAPF + CW - ISO 24443 (HePACK-CLAIM-1)

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) which expresses the sun protection level of a sunscreen product through the full UV spectrum, using a multi-substrates approach (molded and sandblasted plates) on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. This method allows a higher correlation with in vivo results and the product was UV exposed to take into account any potential photo-unstability.

The ISO 24443 method specifies an in vitro procedure to characterize the UVA protection of sunscreen products in a reproducible manner. In order to determine relevant UVA protection parameters, the method is strictly followed to provide a UV spectral absorbance curve from which a number of calculations can be undertaken such as the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) and the Critical Wavelength (CW). This method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the UV absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He123c2)

HeCW-FDA - In vitro CW - Broad Spectrum FDA 2011

On June 2011 the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) announced new requirements for sunscreens currently sold over-the-counter (OTC). Sunscreens that pass FDA’s In vitro Critical Wavelength test procedure, which measures a product’s ultraviolet A (UVA) protection relative to its ultraviolet B (UVB) protection, may be labeled as «Broad Spectrum» with SPF value on the front label. This test is based upon an in vitro spectrophotometric measurement technique including an UV exposition to a representative dose of sun-simulated ultraviolet radiation, to allow for any photo-unstability of the active ingredients contained within the sun protection product.

(ex-ref. He003f)

HeUVA:UVB-BOOTS - In vitro UVA:UVB - Boots Star Rating 2011

The UVA measurement method used to allocate UVA:UVB ratio protection categories in accordance to the Boots Star Rating system (2011 revision) is based upon an in vitro spectrophotometric measurement technique in which the tested product is spread using adequate substrate and exposed to a representative dose of sun-simulated ultraviolet radiation, to allow for any photo-instability of the active ingredients contained within the sun protection product.

(ex-ref. He003b1)

HePHOTOSTAB-2 - In vitro Photostability dynamic approach*

One paradox of sunscreen products is that in order for them to protect against UV radiation, they must be exposed to it, which induces their photo-degradation and, in turn, a progressive loss in efficacy. The present dynamic method measures photo-stability based on the residual efficacies of UVA+B parts in a formula. By using a reproducible substrate, an automated spreading and different doses of UV exposure, samples also could be ranked in order of stability-potentially providing new label claims.

(ex-ref. He006b)

HeRUB - In vitro Rub Resistance*

Consumers now require traditional sun protection with improved esthetics and added benefits including water resistance and other resistance factors. Following this need, HelioScreen developed a new in vitro UV method to reliably determine the rub resistance of sun care products. The resulting Rub Resistance Factor indicates whether a sunscreen is still effective after being rubbed with a textile (towel, cloth, etc.). This new in vitro test is also marketable, and provides a strong label claim for sunscreen manufacturers to make on sun care products.

(ex-ref. He805)

HeWET - In vitro Wet Skin*

Today’s consumers are more and more attracted by sun care products which can be applied directly after getting out of the water. Therefore, to market a new sunscreen that can keep its sun protection when applied on wet skin, HelioScreen exclusively developped an innovative In Vitro method. This method is based on the comparison of the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) on a dry then a wet substrate and the calculation of Wet Skin percentage.

(ex-ref. He806)

HeEXT - In vitro Extreme Conditions*

A new In Vitro test has been developped to check, by means of a spectrophotometric method, if the sunscreen product preserves its UV protection in extreme conditions in termes of temperature and hydrometry. The aim is to guarantee to consumers a protection against UV whatever the season or the place where they are.

(ex-ref. He810)

HeLONG-1 - In vitro Long Lasting - 4h*

For their daily routine on the morning, some consumers are looking for products providing a sun protection during several hours. Therefore, an in vitro method is proposed to measure the durability during 4 hours of the sun protection performance in time and considering the photostability too.

Note: Sunscreen product should be reapplied at least every two hours

HeLONG-2 - In vitro Long Lasting - 8h*

For their daily routine on the morning, some consumers are looking for products providing a sun protection during several hours. Therefore, an in vitro method is proposed to measure the durability during 8 hours of the sun protection performance in time and considering the photostability too.

Note: Sunscreen product should be reapplied at least every two hours

HeUVC - In vitro UVC*

To have a complete UV protection (including UVB from 290 – 320 nm and UVA from 320 to 400 nm) for some specific activities, an in vitro method is proposed to assess the UVC protection too (from 290 to 200 nm).

(ex-ref. He801)

HeBL - In vitro Blue Light*

Considering that long-term exposure to BL (from the sun light, digital and electronics devices using LED technology, etc.), this damage induces similar physiological responses in the skin to UV exposure which translate to the typical signs of premature skin aging such as loss of elasticity, dryness and fine lines. This innovative in vitro method consists in evaluating the Blue Light protection levels expressed by the BL-CW (UV/VIS balance) and the % BL (percentage of intensity of BL protection) from a sunscreen product through the spectrum (from 290 nm to 500 nm) measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product was pre-irradiated before measurement. Finally, this method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He808)

HeVIS - In vitro Visible*

Considering that Visible (VIS) light from 400 to 700 nm (mainly from the sun light) also contributes to skin damage via induction of radical protection, a relative protection can be effective whatever the benefits or harmful effect of VIS on the skin and should be assessed in a reliable manner. Therefore, this innovative in vitro method consists in evaluating the Visible protection levels expressed by the VIS-CW (UV/VIS balance) and the % VIS (percentage of intensity of VIS protection) from a sunscreen product through the spectrum (from 290 nm to 700 nm) measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product was pre-irradiated before measurement. Finally, this method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He811)

HeIR - In vitro Infrared (IRA-IRB)*

Since Infrared (IR), including the IRA and IRB, is the most implicated in skin damage, IR protection factors should be comparable between products and provide the balance of UV, visible and IR protection within a single product. This innovative in vitro method consists in evaluating the IR protection levels expressed by the IR-CW (UV/VIS/IR balance) and the % IR (percentage of intensity of IR protection) from a sunscreen product through the full spectrum (from 290 nm to 2500 nm) measured by means of a spectrophotometric method. To take into account any potential photo-unstability, the product was pre-irradiated before measurement. Finally, this method relies on the use of in vivo SPF results for scaling the absorbance curve.

(ex-ref. He807)

HeFULL - In Vitro Full Spectrum (UV+BL+VIS+IR)*

Sunscreen products should be able to protect our skin from the all solar spectrum including UV, Visible and IR wavelengths. Nevertheless, even if sunscreen products with a protection beyond the UV is now worldwide recognized and used, none standardized methods are available for protection assessment, nor any regulations regarding the limits criteria for claiming purpose Therefore, in this present work, the authors developped a new In Vitro method and limits criteria allowing the assessment of the Full Spectrum (also called Full Light) protection of sunscreens including UV, Blue Light, Visible and IR protection.

(ex-ref. He809)

In vivo SPF - ISO 24444**

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by in vivo method according to the ISO 24444 standard, based on human skin erythema induced by solar ultraviolet rays, for products that contain any component able to absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) rays and which are intended to be placed in contact with human skin.

(ex-ref. He001vc)

In vivo SPF - FDA 2011**

This test consists in evaluating the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) by in vivo method according to the FDA 2011 standard, based on human skin erythema induced by solar ultraviolet rays, for products that contain any component able to absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) rays and which are intended to be placed in contact with human skin.

(ex-ref. He001vf)

In vivo UVAPF - ISO 24442**

This test consists in evaluating the UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF) by in vivo method according to the ISO 24442 standard, based on human skin pigmentation induced by solar ultraviolet rays, for products that contain any component able to absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) rays and which are intended to be placed in contact with human skin.

(ex-ref. He002vc)

In vivo Water Resistance & Very Water Resistance - Colipa 2005**

This test consists in evaluating the SPF and Water Resistance (WR) or Very Water Resistance (VWR) by in vivo method, before and after water immersion, according to the ISO 24444 standard and Cosmetics Europe (ex-Colipa) 2005 methods, based on human skin erythema induced by solar ultraviolet rays, for products that contain any component able to absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) rays and which are intended to be placed in contact with human skin.

(ex-ref. He004vc & He004avc)

In vivo Water Resistance & Very Water Resistance - FDA 2011**

This test consists in evaluating the SPF and Water Resistance (WR) or Very Water Resistance (VWR) by in vivo method, before and after water immersion, according to the FDA 2011 method, based on human skin erythema induced by solar ultraviolet rays, for products that contain any component able to absorb, reflect or scatter ultraviolet (UV) rays and which are intended to be placed in contact with human skin.

(ex-ref. He004vf & He004avf)

CONTROL

In order to optimize your sunscreen products or to control the quality of your products, we propose you exclusive tests developed by HelioScreen.

* Method published by HelioScreen.

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HeCOMP-1 - In vitro Comparison (quality, batch, ageing, etc.)*

The statistical comparison method is used to compare two sunscreen products in terms of ageing, batch, benchmarck, etc. Based on all absorbance spectrum checking between a reference and a product to be tested by means of an in vitro method, two important rules are followed. First, compare at the same time and same conditions the two products to limit the measurements variability. Second, a three stepped checking based on the absorbance values including comparison of the shape of the curves, variability and intensity.

(ex-ref. He005b)

HeCOMP-2 - In vitro Comparison with resistance (quality, batch, ageing, etc.)*

The statistical comparison method is used to compare two sunscreen products in terms of ageing, batch, benchmarck, etc. Based on all absorbance spectrum checking between a reference and a product to be tested by means of an in vitro method, two important rules are followed. First, compare at the same time and same conditions the two products to limit the measurements variability. Second, a three stepped checking based on the absorbance values including comparison of the shape of the curves, variability and intensity.

In this method, a specific step to compare the resistance of both products can be added such as Water Resistance, Rub Resistance, etc.

(ex-ref. He005b with option)

HeABS-1 - In vitro Non Absorption

This test consists in evaluating the non absorption of a cosmetic product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method.

(ex-ref. He802)

HeABS-2 - In vitro Absorption curve

This test consists in evaluating the absorption curve of a cosmetic product through the full UV spectrum, using an adequate substrate on which the product has been spread and measured by means of a spectrophotometric method.

(ex-ref. He803 & He804)

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Substrates

 
PMMA – Molded HD6
PMMA – Sandblasted SB6

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HD-SPREADMASTER
HD-THERMASTER

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